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Inspired by Haute Couture: The Boundaries between Adaptation of Fashion Trends and Illegal Copying

Student: Oskolkova Anastasiia

Supervisor: Zoya Kotelnikova

Faculty: Faculty of Social Sciences

Educational Programme: Sociology (Bachelor)

Year of Graduation: 2020

This paper aims to discover how the boundaries between adaptation and illigal copying of fashion design in the mass market are constructed. It is vital to understand why some mass-market brands have legitimate freedom to apply luxury brands designers' ideas and this is considered a socially approved practice, while the same segment designers face economic, reputational and legal costs. To solve this proplem we took 23 semi-structured in-depth interviews with luxury and mass-market clothing manufacturers, fashion experts, journalists, and intellectual lawyers. We assume that the copying of fashion design by the mass-market brands is supported, as it makes fashion clothes affordable. The copying definition is subjective and differs by profession. Moreover, the design protection process lasts longer than economic and cultural significance. Besides, mass-markets can justify copying by adopting identical trends and following the fashion cycle. Additionally, in the context of clothing design, it's suggested that there is nothing original, styling becomes more relevant as it is fulfilling the lifestyle people desire, and innovation lies in the technological effectiveness and social responsibility of the brand.

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