Khachapuri Dreams
As the long Moscow winter drags on, we all must remember to stay warm. A heavy coat can help, but, ultimately, staying warm means staying full. And while Moscow is full of restaurants – new ones seem to open nearly every day – when I want a truly satisfying meal, I turn my taste buds south, and look for a taste of Georgia.
For the uninitiated reader, Georgian is one of the world’s greatest, and most underappreciated, cuisines (though Russians have been quietly enjoying it for centuries). Sitting on the crossroads of civilizations, Georgia boasts food that combines elements and flavor profiles from Mediterranean, European and west Asian culinary traditions, creating something homey and familiar, but at the same time exotic and unique. With fresh vegetables, succulent stews, and grilled meats, there’s a dish for everyone.
The true stars of the Georgian kitchen, however, are khinakli and khachapuri, two creations you can’t find anywhere else. Khinkali, Georgian dumplings, typically come with a minced meat filling. The meat cooks inside the wrapper, trapping the juices inside. Typically, you first pick the khinkali up, bite in, and suck all the juices out, before proceeding to devour the rest.
Khachapuri are cheesy breads, typically made with slightly sour, slightly salty sulguni cheese. While a number of variations exist, the adjarian (po-adjarskii in Russia) is clearly king: open boat-shaped dough, melty cheese and an egg (or two) plopped in the center.
To help you get launched on your culinary adventures, here are three Moscow spots with some of the best Georgian food around…
Khinkalnaya na Spasskoi
The waitresses at this kitschy locals-only hangout just outside the Sadovoe Koltso will greet you with a scowl, but they’ll also serve up one of the best meals you’ve ever tasted. The downstairs space has spacious tables, and old photographs hang along the walls. The menu offers the full range of Georgian fare, from appetizers down to deserts, and it’s hard to make a poor choice.
Favorites such as the smooth pkhali – a minced vegetable dish served with nuts – and the scrumptious stews – try the chashushuli – prove that the chefs here don’t hold back on flavor. The khinkali can hold up with the best of them: juicy, meaty, and just the right thickness of dough. Same goes for the adjarskii khachapuri, which is dished up fresh out of the oven, cheese still bubbling and the crust golden brown. And if you somehow have room for dessert at the end of this feast, they make a mean baked apple with honey and nuts.
All of this should, of course, be washed down with a bottle (or two) of “chacha”, Georgia’s famous grape vodka.
Pro tip: If you’re coming for dinner, especially on a weekend, better to call ahead and make a reservation. Be sure to bring cash too, as cards are not accepted.
Address: Bolshaya Spasskaya ulitsa, 11
Metro: Sukharevskaya
Phone: 8(495) 542 43 37
Dukhan Chito-Ra
Chito-Ra has been a Moscow foodie favorite long before I arrived, and I was lucky to be invited there during my first month in town; it’s located on a side street near the Kurskaya train station, and a bit tricky to find at first. There are many reasons to seek out Chito-Ra, but really only one reason to keep coming back: the best khinkali in town. You’ll find burly men hunched over multiple mouthwatering platters, ordering in magnitudes of 10.
For the newcomers, I’d recommend starting with a handful and ordering more to taste. But it truly is possible to visit Chito-Ra and order nothing else. I’m hesitant to even recommend another dish – I’d be lying if I said I’d tasted it. The only extra you really need is a sprinkle of black pepper.
The khinkali filling here contains the perfect balance of meat and herbs, with the aroma of coriander and onion fills your palate as you bite in. They are big, but not unwieldy, juicy, but not sloppy. It’s a hot soup and filling main course all in one. It’s the best darn dumpling this side of Hong Kong.
Address: Kazakova ulitsa, 10
Metro: Kurskaya
Phone: 8(499) 265 78 76
Khachapuri
This slightly higher-end incarnation of the Georgian café offers can’t miss food, a cozy interior, and two locations. It could be a date-night spot, especially if you opt for a bottle of Georgian wine. Or, just as easily, it could be the perfect place for a big dinner with friends.
As far as the menu goes, the shashlik (grilled meats) here stand out both for their freshness and presentation; they’re served on wooden plates and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. The namesake khachapuri will also leave you sublimely satisfied.
Address: Bolshoi Gnezdnikovskii, 10
Metro: Tverskaya
Phone: 8(985) 764 31 18
And
Address: Ukrainskii Bulvar, 7
Metro: Kievskaya
Phone: 8(985) 764 23 64
Noah Sneider, Writer and Research Fellow of the HSE Institute of Education